L'avis de Gault&Millau
Young and talented – that’s how people describe Paweł Stawicki, not only in Pomerania. Having gained experience in London’s The Greenhouse and Norwegian Maaemo, he settled in Gdańsk. At Mercato, Stawicki serves dishes based on regional products, giving them a modern form and caring for appealing presentation – his kitchen is the birthplace of real works of art! He is not a lone wolf and always emphasises the strength of his team. The restaurant is located on the ground floor of the Hilton Hotel, and its windows overlook the Motława and Ołowianka rivers. The interior provides a soothing experience with its combination of greys and natural wood. Black-and-white wall graphics communicate the four pillars of the restaurant’s cuisine. There are: ancient fava bean seeds, Baltic salmon, Żuławy sheep and duck. All these products are found on the plates in various interpretations. The menu is based on seasonal and local ingredients sourced according to the ‘farm-to-table’ principle from the neighbouring areas within a 100 km radius from Gdańsk. The chef mixes them with selected colonial products, thus alluding to the history of the city. In ancient times, the Via Mercatorum trade route from the north to the south of Poland led through it, so it is clear that the tables of the rich residents of Gdańsk have for centuries carried not only products from the immediate vicinity. The dishes that are now served on Mercato’s tables show off both the city’s local character and its history. You’ll be able to fully appreciate it by ordering a tasting menu. PSST! The right wine pairing will be provided by a sommelier who can surprise you with some real gems, to name just a 40-year-old port wine.